tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56449511621586280842024-03-19T13:51:09.188+11:00RAILS IN SCALERails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-12861857231142146622016-03-27T17:53:00.000+11:002016-05-10T10:06:31.433+10:00 NSWGR weathered models <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-16034385428786160152014-11-23T18:18:00.001+11:002014-11-23T18:50:23.190+11:00<span style="color: cyan;"><span class="userContent">Hi all - it has been a long time without a post!</span></span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><span class="userContent"><br />
So I will just cut to the chase! I got out of hospital about six weeks ago and have not done much model work of late. I have had back problems for about 10 years and
was helping a mate out in <span class="text_exposed_show">his workshop
part-time. He needed an experienced mechanic to help run the workshop, and
I enjoy working as a mechanic, as it has been my trade for 25 years.<br /> <br />
In this workshop foreman role, it was light work, but the standing on my feet stated to play havoc with my back. I finished up in a wheelchair in emergency at my local hospital after a few weeks of back pain. The back just went on me overnight.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show">I should have taken note of the signs but instead, I just soldiered on only to pay big time in the long run! Anyway, there is always someone worse off. I walked out of hospital only needing a walking stick! So, I consider myself one very lucky, slightly burnt out tradesman, who now has more time to spend on the hobby.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show">The model below was going to be my entry at Liverpool, but I could not make it due to the afore mentioned problems. I had also posted some progress photos on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711">facebook</a> some time ago, however, it is now </span></span></span><span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span style="color: cyan;">finished, and I may someday display it at a show.</span></span></span><br />
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<span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span style="color: cyan;">So there you have it, an abandon station somewhere on the N.S.W railway system! I will add this model to my layout one day, but for now it is a great way to display Rails In Scale and UNEEK Models detail items.</span></span></span><br />
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<span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span style="color: cyan;">Cheers,</span></span></span><br />
<span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show"><span style="color: cyan;">Dean </span></span></span><br />
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<br />Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-22854510531138202652013-10-24T21:17:00.000+11:002013-10-25T17:24:57.209+11:00On Track models NHEF Hopper - weathering tips<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all, </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I have another weathering "how too" guide. This time, it's for the NHEF coal hopper RTR by <a href="http://ontrackmodels.com.au/models/nhef" target="_blank">On Track models</a>. I have weathered one and posted it on my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711" target="_blank">facebook</a> page as I was asked by a few people to do another "how too" guide. So...lets get started!</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Please Note: All photos are taken under a desk lamp so the pics may be off in colour. However, no PC screen is the same so I believe it will be good enough for this posting. I will add a better (outdoor) shot of the finished model on facebook as soon as I can.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi797gByDl22lCleCG_hjZ2lniYofCc6XVv6uRVzXCaUBrqNMYxLQOZR9PvUnaNLPA8Caemda-UDJzpDkqpJZSldhpDVNQg3A7bfaXMrrI6PqwU8ZW2P9dtVdCOvWhvGzlpuBXVPntZwi-k/s1600/Picture+3065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi797gByDl22lCleCG_hjZ2lniYofCc6XVv6uRVzXCaUBrqNMYxLQOZR9PvUnaNLPA8Caemda-UDJzpDkqpJZSldhpDVNQg3A7bfaXMrrI6PqwU8ZW2P9dtVdCOvWhvGzlpuBXVPntZwi-k/s320/Picture+3065.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">The above photo shows the model with some other projects painted in Dullcoat and with the bogies removed for painting in plastic primer. Plastic primer is available from auto parts stores and contains "flex aid" and </span><span style="color: cyan;">is also s<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">pecifically</span> formulated to adhere to plastic surfaces! It is about your best shot for painting Acetal polymers like Delrin bogies.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpJGf1yqTas_C1FtZexU3J6_Sd28LpiwkHy1ZdQz3GL0WoUiaRUlad-0ZXq0qPhY809JGC0bMLRDn5xpwSxYTvyDsMy2oh6ZxXLnVDpZDnrVqwbG4U0TSMInUd1W70lQBsU-RxOR7F2eS/s1600/Picture+3061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpJGf1yqTas_C1FtZexU3J6_Sd28LpiwkHy1ZdQz3GL0WoUiaRUlad-0ZXq0qPhY809JGC0bMLRDn5xpwSxYTvyDsMy2oh6ZxXLnVDpZDnrVqwbG4U0TSMInUd1W70lQBsU-RxOR7F2eS/s320/Picture+3061.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">As you can see above, I have dusted the model with a light gray pigment and painted all the parts that are to look rusted, with brown paint.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Now I have added some brown pigments to the gray, and blended them by adding more gray or brown as I needed it. I also coated the brown painted parts with a rust pigment.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Now I gloss coat the model, and as you can see it has lost some of the weathering, but that's okay; we need a gloss surface for the decals. Note: If your not adding Graffiti you may skip this gloss coat step.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjniY5VkO3kXTpS0aAuxqRkjITmoMBmoIUk-QpUGo_gh8PAgCCzcZZg3ah1otHDze8K7lqVSIRNPlg2VRglOyMbpTx7FmonBfTWFun-Y960UgN6eK8l9upHCFWZXwoPBJs4py9WUah9rtLL/s1600/Picture+3077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjniY5VkO3kXTpS0aAuxqRkjITmoMBmoIUk-QpUGo_gh8PAgCCzcZZg3ah1otHDze8K7lqVSIRNPlg2VRglOyMbpTx7FmonBfTWFun-Y960UgN6eK8l9upHCFWZXwoPBJs4py9WUah9rtLL/s320/Picture+3077.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">In this photo you can see the finished model. I reapplied dullcoat on the graffiti covered model, and repeated the pigment steps listed above. I also added some rust pigment to a thinned flat clear (50/50 mix) and painted all the steel parts again. I then painted the plastic primed bogies with flat white and weathered the same way I did the model, only this time using black and dark brown pigments. </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers, Dean </span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-43845971856364311722013-10-19T21:11:00.000+11:002013-10-20T12:59:10.412+11:00SDS Bogie Cattle Wagon<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Just thought I would do a short post on the SDS Cattle wagons.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I used some of the SDS models for demonstrations in weathering at the Sydney Model railway exhibition and I was impressed by the detail of the models.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">However the roof was more suited to freshly "out shopped" wagons being a neat and smooth roof. It did not suit the 1970/80's all that well. So, I thought I would make a replacement roof in polyurethane (which will be released In a few weeks), with all the wear and tear of a well used wagon.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The roof has all the detail cast in place like the weathered timber, with what is left of the "Malthoid" or "Duroid" bituminous paper strips used to seal the timber planks.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">So I will start with a few pics showing the weathering stages, and don't forget, I have older posts of weathering livestock wagons, so take a look! I will announce the roof release on<span style="color: yellow;"> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711" target="_blank">Facebook</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">In the above photo, I have used a sharp hobby knife to score the surface to give an impression of aged wood.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I have then added some livestock, and gave the model a dry brush to highlight the metal bracing.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Now I have weathered the model using the same techniques listed on my older blogs.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The last photo shows the new roof in place, with weathering, by colouring in the Malthoid with a black marker pen.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers Dean</span><br />
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Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-73747529969181297062013-08-13T16:53:00.000+10:002013-08-16T19:29:39.928+10:00Road bridge kit - released on Ebay <span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I have released the first of the two bridge kits on EBay, and I have added some photos of the finished kit.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The bridge kit is based on the Lions Rd-Cougal Northern NSW, border loop area. However it would look at home over any creek on most Australian themed layouts, and perhaps, other layouts based on a different country. </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The <b>"</b>Lions Road" is a road running between the Summerland way in N.S.W, and a junction at the Mount Lindesay highway. It is a road that joins two pre-existing sections
of rural road - Wilson Avenue in New South Wales, and Running Creek
Road in Queensland. It was so named as most of the funding, planning
and voluntary labour for the road came from the Kyogle branch of the Lions club. A
Kyogle resident, Jack Hurley, was one of the most prominent advocates for
the road and despite the NSW Government rejecting the idea in 1969, it was
opened the following year.</span><br />
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</span><span style="color: cyan;">A good deal of its length is a narrow one-lane road that cannot
be used by trucks or cars towing caravans/trailers. It was only
recently that the road was fully sealed with bitumen. The road has many creek crossings along its length, and several of
the bridges are of wooden construction that can only support low weights.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Kyogle has over 240 bridges and around half are made of wood. My research tells me the bridge I have based my kit on is much older than the Lions Rd itself! It appears the pre-existing roads may date back to the late 1800's and were mostly used for logging. </span><span style="color: cyan;">Timber cutters made serious in-roads into the regions resources, being red cedar, and bullock teams made their own roads and bridges as they worked the area.</span><br />
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<sup>.Cheers Dean.</sup></span><span style="color: cyan;"></span><span style="color: cyan;"><sup class="reference" id="cite_ref-abc_1-1"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lions_Road#cite_note-abc-1"></a></sup></span><span style="color: cyan;"></span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-28767442640143083762013-08-05T20:28:00.001+10:002013-08-05T20:43:27.890+10:00NSWGR 47 Class loco weathering.<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Again way to much time has passed since my last blog posting. However I have been so busy, with my 75 year old father taking a fall and hitting his head, which put him in hospital for a week. Things have just been crazy!</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">For this post, I have weathered a N.S.W.G.R '47 class loco from a photo taken by Bryan Vandestelt, way back in 1989. I spotted it the in Railway Digest of October 1990 sometime ago, and I have used it for weathering inspiration more than once.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">This time, however, I decided to match the weathering to the model, rather that just use it as a general guide. I must say a "thanks" to Railway Digest for tracking </span><span style="color: cyan;"><span style="color: cyan;">down </span>Bryan, so I could get the O.K to use the photo. Another thanks to Bryan and his brother who went to so much trouble getting the image to me. Bryan sent the slide to his brother who scanned it, and sent me the photo so I could use it for this blog posting.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBg8GBOD7hp-UcNz83Rip2NWjw8hVpV8y52ilmCDUeON0OnDuRqwsllOu5ODz2SeUHvcphZpS7SS0E4I7R3Lj5hVF3d1fLgOyGHtLzDWDJK5eiQu5Hdzl2l4Vp-thBG-g2cL-kSwrfshC/s1600/1989-12-11+Kahiba+4714+48131+Bryan+Vanderstelt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBg8GBOD7hp-UcNz83Rip2NWjw8hVpV8y52ilmCDUeON0OnDuRqwsllOu5ODz2SeUHvcphZpS7SS0E4I7R3Lj5hVF3d1fLgOyGHtLzDWDJK5eiQu5Hdzl2l4Vp-thBG-g2cL-kSwrfshC/s320/1989-12-11+Kahiba+4714+48131+Bryan+Vanderstelt.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers,</span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;">Dean</span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-23470933318740180862013-07-11T17:19:00.003+10:002013-08-15T20:26:55.274+10:00Better late than never!<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">It's about time I updated my blog - better late than never! I have been very busy of late with two stints in hospital not helping. I have managed to keep my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711" target="_blank">Facebook</a> page</span><span style="color: cyan;"> up to date with new Rails In Scale kits and detail items.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">My work on the coil wagon kit continues, with much progress being made. I hope to have the re-release kit ready soon.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I have also completed two bridge kits. One is of a bridge that runs over a creek on the Lions/Border loop road in Northern N.S.W. The other, a rail underpass based on a few I have photographed around N.S.W.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I also have added a number of small detail items to my RIS range including line side water tanks, sleeper and rail platform facing, old sleeper junk piles, rail buffers (low wood type), brass turnbuckles and wagon junk loads. All will be listed o<span style="color: purple;"><span style="color: cyan;">n my <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/Rails-in-Scale" target="_blank">eBay</a> </span></span>store.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">In the RIS range of signs, there are five new sets available from petrol stations signs to cigarette billboards.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I also weathered a NSWGR 47 and some QR locos (see facebook page).</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I will do a full post on the 47 class with some photos in a few days.</span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;">For now hears some photos of the bridge kits!</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The finished underpass, road sign, and billboards kits are all displayed in this diorama.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"> Above photo shows the rear of the diorama.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Front side with signs and 1980's billboard.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Close up shot of bridge detail.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">This new release bridge kit will be available at Gold Coast exhibition.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;"> </span> <span style="color: cyan;">Tar covered wood plank.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Close shot of wood detail.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"> . Both kits will be listed on eBay asap.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="color: cyan;">Cheers, Dean</span> </span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-34256082193322220842013-02-07T20:00:00.002+11:002013-02-08T09:54:33.985+11:00Weathering crusty cement<span style="color: cyan;">I received an email from a customer who purchased some of the weathering pigments I sell on Ebay, as linked below:</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEATHERING-PIGMENTS-that-work-SHADOW-GRAY-Rails-In-Scale-ebay-store-/130800506514?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Railways&hash=item1" target="_blank">Shadow Grey weathering powder</a><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The problem he had encountered was mimicking, that is weathering, the crusty dry cement found on cement wagons. I was asked if I could help out, so here we go! I should also point out he asked about dipping the wagons in real cement. I don't recommend this, as you have no control over where the cement goes and you may well just finish up with a wagon that looks like it's been dipped in wet cement.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The first thing is to build (or buy) your wagon. In this case I used an AR kits NPRX wagon with a Keiran Ryan Brass etch walkway kit which I then paint and decal. I used the gray primer as the finished colour plus a gloss coat for decals. I then dull coat the model and let it dry. </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">The next step is to brush paint some clear (water base) paint on the model where you want the crusty cement .</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Then add the pigment by dropping it over the wet paint and shaking the loose powder off. Don't dab at it, just leave it to dry. </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">It may look thick but you can tone it down when dry by rubbing or picking at it until you have a realistic look.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I now use Extra hold hair spray over the model to blend the powders. I tone down the spotty patches by adding powder where needed, giving an even weathered apperance over the whole model.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Another layer of dull coat and some more powder work to finish off. I then weather the bogies, add the KD's, and it's ready to roll! </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><br /></span><span style="color: cyan;">Later Deano.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">P.S. I will do my best to answer all your emails but please be patient some envolve a lot more work to get a blog post up with details and photos. Next I will show how to colour sand stone walls. </span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-26481311295602088742013-01-18T15:06:00.003+11:002013-01-18T18:57:35.290+11:00NSWGR WATER TANK<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">As most of you know I have had some major computer problems that have caused me some big time headaches! I am pleased to say I'm back on track with a new PC. However, I lost all the art work for my kit instructions and sign kits. It was not an easy thing to come to terms with, as the data loss was the result of a mistake made at a PC repair shop. I kept this quite while I sorted the mess out with the repair guys. Efforts were made to recover the data, but in the end I decided to move on and get over it, before it got the better of me!</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I do have printed copies of instructions and signs, so at least I will have something to go off, as I redo everything. I wish I could just scan it all but the images are not clear enough.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Once again I thank everyone for their patience and will do my best to get orders out ASAP.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Now for a modelling fix - I have worked from sun up to sun down, and then some, over the last few weeks whilst sorting my PC. I was burnt out and I needed a modelling fix! It came in the form of a Laser rail bits, timber tank stand.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">An easy and enjoyable kit to assemble and I was really pleased with the end result. So I mounted it to a diorama, added extra details like bolts, inlet/outlet pipes and a tank of course (an old Rails North kit). I milled down the inside of the tank by screwing it down though the top half of each side, then ran the cutter over the parts and cut the top half off when finished. The end<span style="color: cyan;"> result gives a more realistic thinness to each side. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="color: cyan;"> </span> </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">You'd be a Galah to drink that water!!!!</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Water Column UNEEK kit 680</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"> I adjusted the colour - see my Face Book page for the original and extra photos.</span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"> <span style="color: blue;"> </span></span><a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711"><span style="color: blue;">http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711</span></a><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"> Sole plates UNEEK and Woodland scenics</span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"> Later, Deano</span><br />
<br />Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-78506840750472556272012-11-13T11:11:00.001+11:002012-11-14T08:26:35.694+11:00Modeling a Jacaranda tree in HO scale<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I have completed a project modeling a Jacaranda tree that ended up turning into a diorama!</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I noted the trees around the Northern Rivers NSW and Ipswich</span> <span style="color: cyan;">QLD, so I thoiught I would give modeling one a go by painting white sand, a few shades of pink and purple. I used water based hobby paint and airbrushed a small amount of sand in a ice cream bucket.Yes, it blows everywhere. But if you keep the airbrush well away from the sand it can be done! Shake the sand around as you paint.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I will be bringing the diorama along with me to the New England convention so I hope to see you there. The model was weathered using Dr Ben's weathering pigments on just about everything - cars, buildings, people and animals.The red Australian dirt was also pigment and looks very realistic however the photos made it much more reddish than it is.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><i><b>New England Convention</b></i></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">I have been asked in a number of emails, and in person at the Ipswich exhibition, why I will not be demonstrating weathering techniques at this years New England Convention. The reason is that I was not asked/invited. I thought the idea of a convention is to bring something new or different to entusiasts. If it was the same thing, done by the same people each year, wouldn't it just get boring? Anyway, if you have any questions just let me know, I'll be more than happy to help.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers Deano</span><span style="color: cyan;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"> </span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-21245488343846798042012-11-09T19:57:00.000+11:002012-11-12T11:37:03.826+11:00Weathering rusty iron roofs - A how-to guide<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">Another update and some weathering tips. My PC is still under repair. Most of the problems are sorted, but it's now getting some updated parts, extra USB ports and a new case...so I'm posting this from my way too small keyboard on an older-than-I-am, very slow, laptop. </span><span style="color: cyan;">With a battery that lasts five seconds! </span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">I joined facebook a few weeks back and I was asked how I weather iron roofs on my sheep wagons. So I will do my best to show you all how I did it, and I've included pictures. You can find this Facebook page at:</span><br />
<div style="color: blue;">
<a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711" target="_blank">http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711</a></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">The first thing is to prime the roof with white primer.</span> <span style="color: cyan;">I use <u><b>Turpentine</b></u> based primer, not automotive thinner based primer, as the turps based takes longer to dry allowing the primer to stick to the surface. "Turps" primer is found in most paint shops, hardware stores and "discount stores". If you not sure ask, and if they don't know, you are better of shopping where they know the product. </span><br />
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<u><span style="color: cyan;">Turps primers white and gray - I often used gray first, then a light cover with the white</span></u><br />
<u><span style="color: cyan;">In this case I only used the white as it covers well over plastic..</span></u><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><u>The next pic shows the white primed roof with some brushed silver in random spots. </u> </span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Now coat the roof with<b> Dullcoat </b>as this will allow the Dr Bens weathering pigments to stick</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEATHERING-PIGMENTS-that-work-DARK-DAMP-RUST-Rails-In-Scale-ebay-store-/140881189765?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Railways&hash=item20cd2c5b85" style="color: blue;" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEATHERING-PIGMENTS-that-work-DARK-DAMP-RUST-Rails-In-Scale-ebay-store-/140881189765?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Railways&hash=item20cd2c5b85</a><span style="color: blue;">.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Next you can add some Dark Damp rust pigments around but not over the silver. It will cover well over the white primer.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Now add fresh dry rust making sure you keep some of the dark rust showing and give the whole roof a light dusting with the dry rust. Now I cover with a light coating of dullcoat and reapply pigments, that is if some of the weathering has been toned down too much by the dullcoat.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">And there you have it. A weathered rusty iron roof!</span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: cyan;">Later Deano</span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: cyan;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"> </span><br />
<br />Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-76552213771742873562012-10-20T19:44:00.000+11:002012-10-21T08:39:50.209+11:00Damage control..What a month<span style="color: cyan;">Hi <span style="font-size: small;">all,</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">Well it<span style="font-size: small;">'</span>s about time I posted an update, things have been flat out and it<span style="font-size: small;">'</span>s not getting any better at least, for the short term. I will start with the bad news<span style="font-size: small;">. W</span>hen I returned from the Liverpool Exhibition, I went to boot up my PC<span style="font-size: small;">.....</span>and nothing! To cut a long story short the hard-drive was dead. I had backed up most of my data however, I will have to redo most of my HO scale sign range (see Ebay link). <span style="font-size: small;">I will also have to re-do the </span>Coil-wagon instructions, and with regret, this will be another setback on an already slow delivery. I have prints of everything so <span style="font-size: small;">i</span>t won't be a big project, but one <span style="font-size: small;">that will be painstaking to rectify.</span>. I can't just make photocop<span style="font-size: small;">ie</span>s, as the images in the instructions will <span style="font-size: small;">not be <span style="font-size: small;">clear enough.</span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">I have about half a dozen instruction sets printed, so that will keep me going for a wile. However, I may be too busy to redo some of the signs. <span style="font-size: small;">S</span>o, once all stock is sold on E-bay<span style="font-size: small;">, I will st<span style="font-size: small;">op listing<span style="font-size: small;"> therm, </span></span></span>until I find time to play with the artwork. <span style="font-size: small;">O</span>n the<span style="font-size: small;"> positivre</span> side I have been forced to learn how to use my I-phone and set the internet up on my laptop!!<span style="font-size: small;"> I am <span style="font-size: small;">slowly overcoming my technophobia.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">Now to the good stuff.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">Thanks to everyone who stopped by the Rails In Scale stand at Liverpool<span style="font-size: small;">. </span>I hope you all enjoyed the weekend as much as I did. I did a bit of weathering over the weekend showing the use of the Doctor Ben's weathering pigments, and <span style="font-size: small;">I was suprised and grateful how <span style="font-size: small;">quickly <span style="font-size: small;">I sold </span></span></span>out of stock. I am very pleased that so man<span style="font-size: small;">y pe<span style="font-size: small;">ople bought the powders to have a go<span style="font-size: small;"> themselves! I've <span style="font-size: small;">opened a<span style="font-size: small;"> <u style="color: blue;"><b><a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rails-In-scale/266244323495711" target="_blank">Facebook</a> </b></u>page </span>so please <span style="font-size: small;">follow it, as I will be posting some tips and tricks to weathering soon. A<span style="font-size: small;">s soon as more pigments arri<span style="font-size: small;">v<span style="font-size: small;">e, I will list them on the RIS E-Bay store.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rails In Scale will be attending the Ipswich model train show at the Ipswich rail museum <span style="font-size: small;">on the </span>27-28 October 2012.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">I will be dem<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">o</span>nstrating</span> the weathering
techniques I use to weather all my models. I will also bring along <span style="font-size: small;">the remaind<span style="font-size: small;">er</span></span> of my <span style="font-size: small;">HO scale signage and detail items, that is u<span style="font-size: small;">ntil I<span style="font-size: small;">'ve sorted out my PC. Don'<span style="font-size: small;">t forget, Dr Ben's awesome weathering pow<span style="font-size: small;">ders will al<span style="font-size: small;">so b<span style="font-size: small;">e available.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hope to see ya there,</span></span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">Deano </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;">.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-50035380820853571152012-08-19T16:44:00.004+10:002012-08-29T16:12:01.317+10:00Eureka models NSWGR sheep wagon<div style="color: cyan; text-align: justify;">
Hi all,<br />
<br />
It's been another busy weekend. I have completed the Rails In Scale coil wagon instructions although I still need to re-draw one image. But apart from that, they are ready to print. I hope to start sending kits out next week and I will start with all paid orders. If you have ordered and not yet paid, I will contact you when your kits<span style="color: cyan;"> are ready for post.</span></div>
<div style="color: cyan; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">After my late night completing the instructions, I decided to have a weathering fix. My Eureka models bogie sheep wagons arrived last week and as soon as I took them from the box, I could see this was a first class model and was begging for some weathering. About the only thing I could have a winge about was that the wheels are shiner than Her Majesty's best silverware. Apart from that, it's a great model.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">Eureka had the foresite to design the wagon so you can take it apart. You add sheep by simply removing the buffers and floor, and then unclipping the roof. After you add the woolies, you just clip the roof back on, and insert the floor, replace the buffers (or pins on NSSF) and your set to go.</span><br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers Dean,</span><span style="color: cyan;"><br /></span></div>
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Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-71676679454063899352012-08-16T10:38:00.000+10:002012-08-16T12:30:42.789+10:00Murwillumbah Model Railway & Hobby Exhibition 2012<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: cyan;">Hi All<span style="font-family: inherit;">,</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Murwillumbah exhibition went ahead last weekend and as stated in my previous post, I was there to promote weathering to any that would listen. Thankfully, visitors were keen to learn and better still, try it out for themselves! The layouts were of a high quality, and plenty of other models were on display. Everything from cars and planes to ships and boats. Also on display were woodworking crafts and retail model suppliers.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Over the weekend I worked on a few models demonstrating what can be done with Dr Ben's weathering pigments. Some people said I made it look easy, but the truth is Dr Ben's product makes it easy! The stuff just works! I will do my best to get down to the Sydney exhibition and if I do make it, stop by and take a look for yourself.</span></span></div>
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Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-91219382337256133552012-07-19T14:37:00.000+10:002012-07-19T15:11:47.574+10:00Updates and info<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: cyan;">Hi All,</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">I thought it's about time I gave you all an update on the coil wagon - they are almost ready for release. I'm waiting on a order from KD for the couplers. It has been almost two weeks since my last contact with them, so I emailed them again yesterday and have almost got everything sorted. I just sent my payment info so I hope to see something in the post this week.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">The other set back has been the writing of the instructions. After a rather poor first effort in black and white, I decided to redo them in colour, with photos and 3D CAD drawings. This will make life a lot easier in assembling the kit.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">The progress on the BBP box plough has been slow, with the coil wagon being my first priority. However, I have made the roof master but that's as far as I have gone.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">I do have two surprise kits on the way - one is a bridge, and the other is a shipping container. If I get enough of these kits done, I will have samples to show at the Murwillumbah exhibition on August 11th-12th next month.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Whilst there, I will also be doing a weathering demonstration on the use of Doctor Ben's weathering powders. This is the very same product used to weather the model below, as well as all the my other models on this blog. This is the best weathering product I have used! It bonds to the model well, and is so simple to apply with a soft but stiff brush ( I usually shorten the bristles). It's not ground chalk but an industrial pigment and it works!</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">At the exhibition, I will demonstrate how to weather bogies in just a few minutes and the result</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">will blow you away! I will also demonstrate Loco and rolling stock weathering, using the both wet and Dry pigments. I hope to see you there, and I will be glade to answer any questions you may have</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Later,</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Deano </span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;"> </span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-46623657895558657572012-07-03T18:19:00.000+10:002012-07-03T19:11:51.521+10:00Steam era models - X class and NSWGR 45 class locos<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: cyan;">G'day all,</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">I have some new pictures to share. I have had a few camera problems and with some help from a mate we got it all sorted.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">I finished the 45 a few months ago, but I just could not get a clear picture of the weathering job! The X Class is a project for a client, and both locos are fitted with DCC chips! The X class has extra pick-ups in the tender and an LED front light.</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">I will demonstrate weathering techniques at the Murwillumbah model railway and hobby exhibition on the 11th and 12th of August 2012. I do hope to see you there!</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Later,</span></div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Dean</span><span style="color: cyan;"><br /></span></div>
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<br />Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-68216590100431352612012-06-21T14:24:00.002+10:002012-06-22T09:49:37.218+10:00New kit - the BBP ballast wagon<div style="background-color: #666666; color: cyan; text-align: justify;">
Hi all,<br />
<br />
I have some photos of my next kit - the BBP wagon. This kit has been in the pipeline for about two years, however it stalled when it came to the roof vents. I had contacted two manufacturers who made them in brass, and asked if a bulk buy could be arranged. One said they would get back to me, and the other said they would be able to make them in white metal. I did not hear back from either of them again and so I moved on to other projects but, I had made a promise to a number of people that I would do this kit and I was not about<span style="background-color: white; color: cyan;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"> to let them down.</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: #666666; color: cyan; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: cyan;"><span style="background-color: #666666;">After seeing the outstanding casting work of John Dersch at Ornamental castings on my other projects, combined with</span></span><span style="color: cyan;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"> his very </span>fast turnaround, I gave him a call. I asked if I could send a master of the Flettner vents down for casting. The rest is history! The Flettner vents arrived and I got a move on with the masters and the casting. The photos show what I have done thus far.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">The model will be made in such away that you can model it with the doors open or closed! Peter Boorman made the brass etch steps for me. You may not see it in the photos but that's checker plate on the walk ways! I used a new US brand of polyurethane for the castings with some great results. The fine details like bolts and rivets are there you just may not see them in the photos.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">The kit will also include K.D's and bogie's. It is some way off yet, but I thought I would share the progress. </span></div>
<div style="background-color: #666666; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers Dean</span></div>
<div style="background-color: #666666; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<i><b><span style="color: cyan;">P.S. The early bird price is $55, however as things move along it may increase. </span></b></i><br />
<i><b><span style="color: cyan;">If your after a kit please email me on <a href="mailto:railsinscale@gmail.com" style="color: blue;" target="_blank">railsinscale@gmail.com</a></span></b></i></div>
<div style="background-color: #666666;">
<br /></div>
<div style="background-color: #666666; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: cyan;">Thanks John,</span></div>
<div style="background-color: #666666; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.orncastings.com/"><span style="color: cyan;">http://www.orncastings.com/</span></a><span style="color: cyan;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">Thanks Peter,</span></div>
<div style="background-color: #666666; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.peterboormansworkshop.com.au/index.htm"><span style="color: cyan;">http://www.peterboormansworkshop.com.au/index.htm</span></a></div>
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<br />Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-81397958792885468352012-06-17T18:38:00.002+10:002012-06-17T20:14:32.582+10:00NSWGR Pay Bus number 8<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">It's been a busy few weeks! The weather has finally dried up allowing me to do some casting and get a move on with the coil wagon! In between I have been keeping my sanity by doing some modelling.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">The subject is the NSWGR pay bus - FP8, based on the unit stored at the old Casino station. The model went together nicely, the only problem I encountered was the decals were not printed </span><span style="color: cyan;">very well</span><span style="color: cyan;">! I used a set of L7 logos I had in my decal collection.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">I fitted DCC and fibre optic lights behind the clear lenses. I had to replace the headlight mounts with a set from Detail Associates as the castings on the bus were way to large.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">Now to the coil wagon - I hear you say! I have started the casting and will soon be sending out the orders already taken. I will also have the coil sets for sale. They are $8 for a set of three, enough for each wagon. Those of you with unpaid orders will receive an email when you kits are ready.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers Dean</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<br /></div>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-37898686757125745282012-05-26T12:08:00.003+10:002012-06-02T16:40:34.711+10:00Finished coil wagon sample<div style="color: cyan; text-align: justify;">
Hi All,</div>
<div style="color: cyan; text-align: justify;">
<br />
At last I have a sample to show!<br />
<br />
This model has been built of castings from the masters and is what you will be getting in kit form. The signage is the only part that will be reworked with some extra details on the number board and a clean up of the L7 logo. I will now set about making new production molds that will let me cast parts at more than one at a time with so many small detail parts this will speed up production. I hope to have it all sorted in a few weeks.<br />
<br />
I regret to say the price has gone up. The lost wax brass castings were not the only change made to the kit, I have made a number of new parts in white metal instead of polyurethane. This has brought up the empty weight of the model and also replaces some of the polyurethane brackets that were so small they were prone to breakage.<br />
<br />
All orders already taken will stay at the original announced price however from this point in time all kits are $60 each.<br />
<br />
<div style="color: cyan;">
Price on coils will be announced soon.<br />
<br />
Cheers Dean</div>
</div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixi96B4bqcUNJrEUGbxbI8stzOJZuaJSBmm55QiDUMPIeaNKf8uLH2p7cuIqB21z0fgCtG44lkm08PJy4CYniVKKaD0idDuXphT5jRb1BW_PVXoD1rfVugnm3Mn-6jLyJkVC_TWDCu5UJq/s1600/2012_05250172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixi96B4bqcUNJrEUGbxbI8stzOJZuaJSBmm55QiDUMPIeaNKf8uLH2p7cuIqB21z0fgCtG44lkm08PJy4CYniVKKaD0idDuXphT5jRb1BW_PVXoD1rfVugnm3Mn-6jLyJkVC_TWDCu5UJq/s320/2012_05250172.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-26301012449100313222012-05-04T18:08:00.000+10:002012-06-03T13:41:19.378+10:00Coils for coil wagons<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="color: cyan;">
I have just finished some test castings for the coils. They are a two piece casting that is glued together not unlike the large plastic Auscision silver coil also in the photos. I have cast one in two colours so you can get an idea of the two parts. The other is finished with the straps added.<br />
<br />
At first I thought they were a little too fine however fine was what I was aiming for and after many attempts on the lathe with different speeds and tools I decided on this one! Not too fine or course, (some were so fine they would have passed as N scale).</div>
<div style="color: cyan;">
<br />
They will be available as an extra for the coil wagon or the small Auscision or Walthers coils will also fit.</div>
<div style="color: cyan;">
<br />
Cheers Dean </div>
<br />
<br />
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<span style="color: blue;"> </span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-66717081728391831422012-05-03T18:16:00.000+10:002012-07-03T19:14:12.585+10:00Coil wagon steps<span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span></span><br />
<div style="color: cyan;">
<br />
The coil wagon kit is ever so close, I now have the lost wax brass steps. I know It caused a set back but the detail has been worth the wait! It will make the model look really great (much better than bent wire). I must thank John Dersch at Ornamental castings. Without Johns help, the steps would not have been possible (see link below).<br />
<br />
The other good news is they make a great replacement set for a lot of NSWGR rolling stock. I just fitted a set to my Auscision NLKY Louvered vans (see pics). I will list them on my Rails In Scale E-bay store "Loco-Alco" in the next day or so. I have poured more molds today.<br />
<br />
I will give a few days for them to set. I'll post another blog with pics of the coil wagon and a surprise kit I have been working on. </div>
<div style="color: cyan;">
<br />
Until then...</div>
<div style="color: cyan;">
Deano </div>
<div style="color: cyan;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: cyan; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.orncastings.com/">http://www.orncastings.com/</a></div>
<div style="color: cyan;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: cyan; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/Rails-in-Scale">http://stores.ebay.com.au/Rails-in-Scale</a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: blue;"></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"> </span><b><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-20185098872176210962012-04-14T18:09:00.000+10:002012-06-02T17:15:20.167+10:00A saturday arvo V/line X class weathering job<div style="color: blue;">
<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all,</span><br />
<br />
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While I was waiting for silicone rubber molds to set for the coil wagon project, I thought I do some weathering. Just a weather powder job with a little oil spillage in places.The V/line locos can get rather dirty and their gray & orange paint can really show this.</div>
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I did change my flat clear from my usual dull coat to a water based paint. Now that Horizon has closed, I have discovered how well John looked after us modelers! I went to buy Dull Coat from another shop in Beenleigh and It was twice the price! So I used a water based paint from the UK.<br />
<br />
The paint goes on white and drys flat clear, however the dull coat has a much flatter look and takes the powders with more tooth! I will use the Tamiya flat clear from now on. It does not eat decals and drys reasonably flat. As for this Loco, it will pass. But, I think it would have been better with the dull coat.</div>
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<span style="color: cyan;">Cheers Dean</span><br />
<span style="color: cyan;"> </span> </div>
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</div>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-83945394529137607562012-03-20T18:51:00.001+11:002012-06-03T13:47:10.837+10:00Updating the update - coil wagon progress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: cyan;">Hi all ,</span><br />
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Things are going well with the new kit. I have made a few changes and added some white metal components to bring the empty running weight up.The finished lower frame has now been re-done with some added detail!</div>
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As you can see in the pics, I have added the side rails and the lower parts of the coil seats. This was a test fit of the new white metal parts. I have also added a close up shot of a Jacking pad. This is one of four brass etch pads you construct from the etch parts (see other post for a shot of this etch).</div>
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It also has the tow plates in the same etch.<br />
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Now for the brass steps. I have started a new master for the steps that will be based on the prototype steps. The NQIW steps were close but not the same! Now, I thought they would be better than just a bent wire. However, a few you you pointed out that they are close, but not the same. If I'm putting in so much effort, why not go that little bit extra and make them correct!</div>
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So you win! I will cast brass step that match the prototype and I'll keep you posted.<br />
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Deano<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEV7HNIELplzuZtclpTnos2Go0vV1zzxmMC2wJ0G17-8Nvl7r6qhmWtkZw91Ncnk3jtOEeSZUV7LR1u5ACFhWk1ROSbu6ayEaJf_5TWp9aAPFc_b-_gsDu3ofs15UuGkmodn01NMb4cN-u/s1600/2012_02110009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEV7HNIELplzuZtclpTnos2Go0vV1zzxmMC2wJ0G17-8Nvl7r6qhmWtkZw91Ncnk3jtOEeSZUV7LR1u5ACFhWk1ROSbu6ayEaJf_5TWp9aAPFc_b-_gsDu3ofs15UuGkmodn01NMb4cN-u/s320/2012_02110009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-48993385505533883292012-03-05T11:57:00.008+11:002012-06-02T17:23:20.795+10:00NCPF / RCPF Coil wagon update.<div style="color: cyan; text-align: justify;">
Hi all,<br />
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I've received a number of emails in response to the coil wagon and I'm guessing it will be a popular kit! Things are going well with the production. The chassis is completed and some improvements were made. I'm more than pleased with the finished master.</div>
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The next improvement is the steps. The kit was going to have wire you bend into steps, but I have chosen to use lost wax brass castings. I did a production run for the Auscision NQIW wagons and they sold out in few days on Ebay! I will re-run them and use them in the coil wagon kit. With the super accurate models from China, I thought it's worth the effort. Also, being brass, they won't break as easy as the plastic items from China. At this date they will remain at $50 per kit plus posage,t and as in the last post , coils will be extra.</div>
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I will also be casting white metal coil cradle bases. in addition, the angle brackets behind the cradles will now also be white metal. This
is to add weight for empty running. The kits sold with coils will still
have the parts in polyurethane, as the coils add the required weight. </div>
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At
this point the price will remain at $50. However, the lost wax parts are
hard too cast with so much 3D detail, and may increase price by $5 per
kit! I will keep you posted!!</div>
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Later Dean</div>
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<span style="color: blue;"></span>Rails In Scalehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17236808551169242360noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5644951162158628084.post-84961722014447980492012-02-21T20:36:00.000+11:002012-06-02T16:12:32.165+10:00New Rails in scale kit NCPF / RCPF Coil wagon<div style="color: cyan;">
Hi all,<br />
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Just a short post to let you know my next kit will be the NCPF RCPF Coil wagon. The kit will include all the castings, brass etch jack pads, decals ,bogies and Kd,s to build the model. The photo shows a basic test casting. The model is yet to have the bracing added to the coil cradles but it give you an idea of the model. It will be on sale in around 13 weeks. Cost is $50 plus post. Please note, the coils will be extra.</div>
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For more info and orders email me at <a href="mailto:railsinscale@gmail.com">railsinscale@gmail.com</a><br />
Cheers Dean<br />
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